Cape to Cape Track

Finding adventure closer to home on the Cape to Cape track

Dianeby Diane
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Western Australia’s border closed in April with a deafening thud.

I could handle all the other ways in which this pandemic had interrupted my life. The social distancing, empty supermarket shelves, closed gym, and my work in hospitality completely drying up overnight. I wasn’t even that fussed that I couldn’t travel interstate.

But no international travel? That was a different story.

No sitting in departure lounges, wondering where everyone around me is going and why. No first impressions of a new place, soaking up every inch of its captivating unfamiliarity. No traipsing around foreign countrysides, charming the locals while enthusiastically sticking my nose into their business. No Antarctic Treaty meetings. No taking my nieces out for gelato in Rome. No Croatia.

It took some serious Power of Now thinking to accept my new reality. Not dwelling in the past or stressing about the future. Embracing the present moment. All that good stuff.

Plus, I’m hardwired for positivity – to respond to delays and disruptions with defiant upbeatness while hunting down shiny, silver linings among those ominous clouds.

So it didn’t take long for me to reframe this travel ban as an opportunity to right a lingering wrong.

You see, I moved back to Western Australia – my home state – three years ago. And for those three years, while living in its capital, Perth, I’ve largely shunned the rest of the state in favour of more exotic, international destinations.  

Despite my best intentions to seek adventure closer to home, I always came up with valid reasons why I wasn’t exploring my own 2.6 million square kilometre (1 million square mile) backyard. Everything was too far away – remote, isolated, expensive. I didn’t own a tent or a car. I didn’t have anyone to travel with. And it was dangerous. I’d get eaten by a shark, bitten by a snake or killed by that guy from Wolf Creek. Possibly all three.

And so three years passed by with little to show but unacted intentions.

When the border closed, and all other options were off the table, I reassessed my list of ‘valid reasons’. Curiously, they began looking more like lame excuses so I gave myself a stern talking to. It went something like this: You can keep coming up with excuses or you can decide what you want to do and make it happen.

That’s how, a month ago, I found myself standing at Cape Naturaliste in the southwest corner of Western Australia. With me were my backpack and the 12 strangers with whom I’d spend the next seven days walking 123 kilometres (76 miles) of rugged coastline on the Cape to Cape track.

I chose the Cape to Cape track because it’s beautiful, iconic and challenging, and because I could do it fully supported as part of a small group tour. This meant I didn’t need any fancy equipment – just some good shoes, a day pack and my defiant upbeatness.

In a nutshell, the Cape to Cape track delivered rugged beauty, peaceful solitude, thigh-burning uphill slogs, and great companionship. I’ll let the photos and captions tell the rest of that story.

I still miss international travel and look forward to the day it returns to my life. Until then, I have plenty to keep me busy.

The list of excuses are out, replaced by a list of adventures – some big, some small, all of them closer to home.

p.s. If you’re interested in walking the Cape to Cape track, get in touch with Gene Hardy and his team at Cape to Cape Explorer Tours. They’re amazing!

It all began here at the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse, located 250km south of Perth, where I met my 12 fellow hikers and we set off on our 123km journey.
We zipped through Day 1 with sturdy feet and high spirits, traversing limestone cliffs and powering through soft sand, on our way to Yallingup.
We began Day 2 checking out the local talent at Yallingup and Smiths Beach…
…before clambered over these giant granite boulders at Point Indjinup…
…and enjoying a well-earned morning tea at the Aquarium.
For most of the rest of the day we walked through low-lying coastal heath with a stunning Indian Ocean backdrop and some breaching whales in the distance.
Seven hours and 22km later, I was happy to reach Quinninup Falls and call an end to Day 2.
A highlight of the hike was our guides, who rotated daily, and were all wonderful in their own unique way. On Day 3, head guide Heather was excited show us some of the 2500+ species of wildflower that grow in this region.
My favourites were these Pink Rice Flowers…
…followed closely by these spider orchids.
On Day 4, the track headed inland to Ellensbrook House, a heritage site where early settlers, Alfred and Ellen Bussel, lived from 1857-65.
The final section of Day 4 had us walking barefoot across the Margaret River. From here we walked up the road to our accommodation at Gnarabup Beach.
The perfect end to a day on the Cape to Cape track – a hot shower and watching the sun set over Gnarabup Beach.
Day 5 on the track was probably my favourite because of the variety of landscapes. From the bush to the river to the beach, we then explored these limestone caves…
…before climbing up on top of them to enjoy these views over Contos Beach.
Then back into the bush for a late lunch and a visit for some emus.
We finished Day 5 in the spectacular Boranup Forest. Its towering canopy of Karri trees sheltered us (mostly) from a few hours of torrential afternoon rain.
About 30% of the 123km track covers soft sand and we crossed most of it during our last two days on the track. It was tough going but by this point our bodies were accustomed to walking 20km+ per day over all kinds of terrain.
On our last day, our end point, the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse came into view and grew larger throughout the day. This King skink came out to say hi as we made our final approach.
Finally we marched together to the finish line (to the tune of the Chariots of Fire theme song) before celebrating our achievement with a champagne toast to an unforgettable week of fun, adventure and friendship.